More Props to J&G Sales

I ordered my S&W Model 64 (square butt, very good condition) from J&G sales at 11:29AM central time. I got an update via email at 6:09PM central time stating that my order had shipped (2nd day air, per federal law regarding the shipping of handguns).

All too often we hear horror stories about retailers, so I thought I'd buck the trend and give some props to a retailer who has supplied me with three firearms so far. Way to go, J&G, keep up the good work.

Oh Yes, She Will Be Mine...

To the right, you will see several variants of the S&W Model 64 chambered in .38 Special. These guns have had their hammers bobbed and converted to "double-action only" (or DAO). They were carried for decades by brave policemen around the country. Now they are retired and are sitting in surplus waiting for good homes.

J&G sales currently has a bunch of them in stock in various condition and trim levels, none of which cost more than $300. They may have some wear on their finish or grips, but they should still be fantastic shooters. Being police guns, they should have been taken care of reasonably well, and fired only a few times a year for qualification.

I am a huge fan of S&W revolvers, and really love this old school stuff. I think these are beautiful old guns, and they're just about giving them away now. I will be placing my order before the week is out. I can't wait to adopt one of these old public servants and give it a good home where it can live out its retirement with other under-appreciated old school firearms. I urge you to consider doing the same.

Where To Save Money (And Where To Spend It)

In these rough times, a gun nut needs to know how to gear up for concealed carry or self-defense without breaking the bank. But there are places where you shouldn't skimp. Here's the short list:

1. The gun!
You don't have to spend $1000+ on a new 1911A1 with all the trimmings, or a shiny new Sig. But you also don't need to take chances with shady names like Bersa, Taurus, and Hi-Point. (Please, no angry "I have a Taurus/Bersa/Hi-Point model X that has never malfunctioned etc" emails or comments. For every one of those I get, I'll get another that says "Amen, I had a Taurus/Bersa/Hi-Point model X that went back to the factory/gunsmith five times and never worked right". I've heard it all, save both of our time.) Instead, look for police trade-ins, second hand Glocks, Sigs, Berettas, or other big-name trade-ins. Also, you can get a S&W M&P-series pistol for $550 or so if you look long enough. Glocks are still around $500 in my neck of the woods, and most Ruger double action six-shooters and their full line of semi-autos come in under $500 new. Some older Rugers can be had for under $400 new. Keep your eyes peeled, and don't rush into a purchase.

As for long guns, most any flavor of pump-action 12 gage shotgun from Mossberg, Remington, and Benelli will be under $400 new, and a very good used one can be had for much less. Military surplus rifles are also usually a bargain if you aren't afraid to do some light gunsmithing/woodworking. If you know what you're looking for, a pawn shop can be quite a gold mine also.

2. Defensive Ammunition.
Your self-defense ammo should be reliable and proven. It doesn't necessarily have to be expensive though. For handguns, the CCI-Speer Gold Dot, Federal Hydra-shok, and Remington Golden Saber ammunition in most any caliber can be trusted. Stay away from Extreme Shock, DRT, and other ammo that costs ridiculous amounts of money and has pictures of ninjas or bikini babes on the box. For rifles, a good jacketed soft point makes a lot of sense. Most any major brand will do. With the shotgun, go with the biggest bite you can get away with, and once again make sure it's from a decent maker (Nobel, Centurian, Federal, Remington, Winchester, Fiocci,etc.).

3. Holsters.
Once again, you don't have to spend a bloody fortune for a good one, but make sure you get a *decent* one. Concealed carry holsters should be very carefully thought out (how, where, and what position will you carry?) and a one-size-fits-all holster probably isn't going to get it done properly. General or rough duty holsters can be one-size-fits-most and you can get away with it. I use a heavy canvas molle-loop enabled holster that came free with my tac vest. It is blocky and cumbersome, but it holds my AR-24 or 1911 high and firm and holds on tight to them when I'm out stomping around the farm. Good leather and good plastic will cost you money, but you'll probably be happier than if you cheap out on them. A bit of forethought goes a long way with holster selection.

Now, places where you can skimp a bit or just invest wisely to save in the long run.

1. Sub-caliber adapters.
I have .22LR adapters for both my 1911A1 and my AR-15. The adapter kits themselves both cost about $200 each, but consider that 500 rounds of .223 Remington (for the AR) costs about $280, while 500 rounds of .22LR costs about $15. Shoot one bulk-pack of .22 and it has paid for itself. Meanwhile, you keep practicing with the same mag pouches, same holster, and same gun. All that changes is the recoil pulse and the cost of training.

2. Range Ammo.
In contrast to defensive ammo, range ammo does not have to be quite as reliable, nor does the bullet have to do anything special. Thus, full metal jacket bulk ammunition is cheaper than defensive ammo. It used to be just plain cheap, but then Barry O got elected and a buying frenzy ensued. Prices probably won't fall for a while yet, so you may want to look at option #1 unless you have a bigger budget than me (and if you aren't a homeless person, you probably do).

3. Snap Caps
If you don't have money to blow on ammo, then spend less than $20 on a set or two of snap caps and do as many dry fire drills as you can. You can practice most anything with these, to include drawing and firing, reload, unload, clear a malfunction, and plain old trigger control (trigger control is 99% of pistol shooting!). Why not make a minor investment for a major payoff?

Shooting is getting expensive enough that it might make you want to throw up your hands and just blow your money on gold chains and a gym membership. But worry not. With a bit of forethought and careful investment, you can afford to keep shooting or at least keep sharpening your skills.

How To Win A Gun Fight Part II: Go Long.

In a gun fight? Want to win? Pay attention to how the James-Younger gang was defeated in Northfield, Minnesota on September 7, 1876 (citation, full article here).

The James-Younger gang cased Northfield before hitting the bank there. The gang was mainly armed with six-shot revolvers, which were in reality only five-shot revolvers because the firing mechanism of the day did not allow the user to carry the hammer down on a live cartridge. To this day, cowboy-action shooters only load five for safety, though new Ruger cowboy gun clones have safer frame-mounted firing pins and transfer bars.

Back on point, the gang members had maybe two or three handguns, which only held five shots and were painfully slow to reload (the Schofield style revolvers were faster to reload though). When the gang actually entered the bank, a teller refused to open the safe and was killed for his trouble. The residents rather resented the attempted robbery and cold-blooded murder, so they went on the offensive. But not with handguns.

One A.R. Manning used a single shot rifle to kill a horse (why not?), wound Cole Younger, and kill William Chadwell. Henry Wheeler grabbed "an old army carbine" (likely a Sharps single shot carbine) wounded Bob Younger, and killed Clell Miller. The residents finished the fight by dispatching possies which in total numbered around 2000 men.

William Chadwell (left) and Clell Miller (right) "pose" for their last photos. Note the solid heart shot on Chadwell, and the hole in the top of Miller's head. Those Minnesota farmers could shoot, eh?

The James and Younger brothers were deadly with their handguns, so why were they trounced by a bunch of farmers and businessmen? Well, the reasons are many, but two big points come to mind: 1) The rifle is MUCH more powerful than any handgun. Even today, the hyper-magnum revolvers only nudge into light or medium rifle muzzle energy. And in my opinion, they are still slower and less accurate than a rifle from most practical positions. 2) Rifles are easier to shoot at distance than handguns. While they aren't necessarily *easy* to shoot, a mediocre rifleman should be able to make hits at much longer ranges than an above average pistolero. Considering ballistics of the day, a rifle could be expected to make hits (in the hands of your average citizen) at 200 yards or better. A long-barreled revolver of the day, in the hands of a skilled marksman (say, Wild Bill Hickok) could kill a man at up to 75 yards with a carefully (NOT under fire) aimed shot. Add in the stress of a battle, a bucking horse, and a dirty bore, and maybe we should reel that range back in to 15 or 25 yards.

So, conservatively (and that's the way I prefer to do things...), the kind folks of Northfield had nearly double the range of the James-Younger boys, and their rifles hit with more authority. In short, the armed citizens who responded to the robbery gave themselves every advantage. Only a fool would go toe-to-toe with a professional gunslinger. However, an accomplished rifleman would stand a chance if he fought his fight--with aimed fire at distance. The point? When you can do so, go for the long gun. Never fight fair!

I should add that while this article focuses on the rifle, the shotgun is also quite an awesome tool for repelling robbers--particularly for urbanites who need to be concerned with over-penetration. I use steel BB shot (brand doesn't matter much to me, but I like Winchester and Federal) in my 12ga Benelli Nova when in the city, and Centurion Multi-Defense or whatever 00 buckshot I can find cheap when I'm in the country. I sometimes load slugs if I think big mean nasties are in the 'hood (cougars, coyotes, escaped prisoners, insurance salesmen, Jehova's Witnesses, etc.). The shotgun is, in my opinion, the most versatile tool available to civilians. It can be loaded for anything, mouse to moose, is easy to use, and can be quite accurate out to 100 yards.

Now, I know that there will be some situations where you may not have the opportunity to grab a shotgun or rifle. Say you get mugged in the mall parking lot. Well, as nice as it would be to have your AR-15, you'll probably have to settle for your pistol (in my case, an M&P9C). While it's true that "you fight with what you have", I think it is also wise to choose the long gun if the chance presents itself. If you can, go long.

If You're Gonna Be Dumb, You Gotta Be Tough or: How To Win A Gunfight, Part 1

Lets assume for a moment that you're familiar with recreational shooting. You shoot holes in paper using monk-like concentration and a perfectly smooth trigger pull. You regularly thrash the bull's eye. Right?

Well, most of the experts (Bill Jordan, Jeff Cooper, Mas Ayoob, Clint Smith, etc) agree that treating combat like a range session will result in you assuming room temperature rather quickly. So what's the difference between recreational and self-defense (combat) shooting? The biggest differences are speed and movement.

Recreational shooting provides the basis for SD shooting. You need to learn what a good sight picture looks like, and what a good trigger pull feels like. You need to learn how to do that every time under any conditions. But when shooting for your life, a few things change. The best way to illustrate the following principles is through real life experience. Let's see what we can learn from the untimely demise of George "Baby Face" Nelson, and maybe I'll sprinkle in a bit of my own experience.

(wikipedia "Baby Face Nelson") Nelson's wife, fleeing into an open field under instructions from Nelson, turned briefly in time to see Nelson hit with the shot that would prove fatal. He grasped his side and sat down on the running board as Chase continued to fire from behind the bandits' car. Nelson, possibly aware of the severity of his injury, then walked in the open towards the agents, reportedly shouting, "I'm gonna kill you sons of bitches!" as he fired at them with a .351 rifle so rapidly that bystanders mistook it for a machine gun. Cowley fled first, seeking a new position in a ditch across the road. Turning to aim his machine gun at Nelson, his weapon failed to fire as his ammunition was exhausted and he fell in a hail of fire from Nelson. Hollis then fired a shotgun blast that struck Nelson in the legs and momentarily downed him. When Nelson quickly regained his feet and kept coming, Hollis, possibly already wounded, fled across the street, turned, and tried unsuccessfully to fire his weapon. He then drew an automatic pistol but quickly collapsed under fire from Nelson, who stood over his body for a moment. After the fight was over, Nelson limped to the agents' riddled Hudson and fled the scene with his wife and Chase. He had been shot nine times (usually misreported as seventeen), telling his wife "I'm done for". Nelson gave directions as Chase drove them to a safe house where Nelson died in bed, with his wife at his side, several hours later.

Here's my list of important points:

1. Return fire and get to cover FAST!
If you don't return fire, the bad guy can and will establish fire superiority and you will be killed. Nelson's fearsome initial barrage was enough to unnerve Agent Cowley, forcing him into a second (poorly chosen) position. Upon reaching his position, Agent Cowley found his weapon was empty, and he was killed. Agent Hollis did much the same thing. Agents Cowley and Hollis violated every "rule" I just laid down here. I don't blame the men, I blame whoever trained them for doing a fine job of training him to perform on a qualification range--but leaving him woefully ill-equipped for a life and death struggle.

2. Learn to reload quickly and efficiently.
Both Agents were killed because of empty or malfunctioning weapons. If they had practiced reloading under stress, George Nelson's last stand may have been decidedly less spectacular. Instead, Nelson killed two more G-Men. Learn to reload and clear malfunctions quickly and efficiently. Keep your fresh mags in the same place every time so reloading becomes more instinctive. Practice shooting in exactly the kind of outfit you'll be fighting in. Cops and military should practice in their heavy armor, with their Batman belts and entry vests on. Civilians who carry concealed should practice using EXACTLY the holster and mag pouches you'll be wearing when some nice young man asks to see your wallet and watch. Oh, and keep your eyes UP (watching the target area) while you reload or clear malfunctions.

3. Two guns are better than one.
Carrying a backup gun doesn't make you paranoid. It makes you a student of history. Perhaps, had either Agent been carrying a handgun (or two), they could have successfully defended themselves once their primary weapons went down. Hollis went for his pistol after it was FAR too late to turn the tide. If your primary has some kind of catastrophic failure (a case stuck in the chamber, broken extractor, etc), simply perform the "Detroit Reload"--toss your malfunctioning weapon and draw the next one. Sounds hokey or perhaps a bit "Hollywood", but it just might save your skin!

4. Overwhelming firepower is hard to argue with.
Nelson knew the fight was on, and so he turned on the pursuing agents with a devastating barrage that scared them. By establishing fire superiority, Nelson was able to fight his fight. He took the initiative and won decisively. This is not advocating "spray and pray". Certainly not for concealed-carriers who will have to defend themselves among many innocents. What I am saying is that if you can keep the bad guy's head down most of the time, you control the fight, and you win.

5. Mindset is everything.
George Nelson was fatally wounded before the fight began. He may have known the extent of his wound and decided to go out with flair. Or maybe he just wanted t give his wife some time to escape. Either way, he was determined to win or go down fighting. He ended up being shot no less than nine times, and he kept fighting. He did not give up, and neither should you. Fight to win. Never quit.

FlatlandCarNut

Just this once, I'm taking my pathetic blog into the realm of CARS. James got me hooked on a BBC show called "Top Gear". It's a car show that ANYONE can watch and be entertained, and education sneaks in between the laughs and dumbfounded looks. That show got me hooked on cars, so here we are. As I get older and more practical-minded, I find myself drifting toward the rice-rocket as my affordable/practical/fun ride of choice. I've been eyeballing the Ford Focus coupe, but as I was clicking through Ford's website, I found something amazing. Wait for it....wait for it! The Fiesta is coming back to the U.S. in early 2010 (as a 2011 model). Feast your eyes on the 5-door hatch model:

And the posterior of the same:

Ford say they're going to power it with a 1.6 liter four-banger cranking out about 120 horsepower. It will offer a 5-speed manual or 4 speed auto transmission. I'll have the manual, thank you. Any boy-racer worth his salt will pick the manual. But it gets better. Ford lets you play around with building your own Fiesta, choosing 3 options you'd like to see on the final production car here in the U.S.. The three that get my gears shifting are: a turbocharger(!), stiffened sport suspension (yes, Ford, oh goodness, YES!), and a racing body kit (seen on the two cars above) which includes a chin spoiler, a spoiler on the top of the hatch, and lowered skirting on the back end. And the best part? They make it in "Tuxedo Black" with brushed aluminium trim.

The Brits have had this car for maybe three years now and they adore it. It's cheap (about $15,000USD nicely equipped), it's reasonably powerful with the basic engine, and a bit of tuning turns it into an axe-murderer dressed in business casual. Oh, and you can afford to drive them! In Europe, in absence of CAFE standards, they get 40+ miles per gallon. Hopefully the U.S. model is close in MPG to its European cousin. If it launches here in the U.S. with similar or the same stats as the Euro-style Fiesta, I'll have one without a second thought. I want a runabout that's cheaper to run than my beloved Ford Ranger XLT 4x4, which struggles to break 22mpg on the highway and about 14mpg in town. Of course, I'll be willing to fill up a bit more often if it comes with the turbo (*drool*), sport suspension, and the sharp looking body kit.

Way to go, Ford. No wonder you don't want bailout money. Now go build it!

The Everything Rifle: Completed (and tested!)

Sorry about the bad picture. I may have James take good ones after I re-finish the stock.

I got my rifle on Saturday (30 May 09) and immediately sprung into action. James and I stripped it down to nuts and bolts and gave the whole works a good washing with mineral spirits and brushed the cosmoline off with a soft paintbrush. After about 25 minutes of washing and gently scrubbing with the brush, the cosmoline was off, and we began to dry parts and fit the scope mount. Oh, using mineral spirits to remove cosmoline dries the metal out quite a bit. I rubbed it down with a dab of Rotella-T 15w40 engine oil to prevent rust and keep the metal in good shape.

I found a couple of small spots of rust pitting on the receiver, and just a bit of surface rust on the barrel, but otherwise, the metal bits were in very good condition. The stock is dinged up and a bit rough looking, but I plan on re-finishing it in late June or early July. The best part, however, was that the bore looked bright and shiny. It looked like it had potential!

Then we set about replacing the rear sight leaf with a weaver-style scope mount. That required the use of my gunsmithing punches and some very small Allen wrenches. I also had to carve some very small notches out of the upper handguard so the new screws could fit. However, the amount of wood removed was very small, and will blend right in once I sand down the whole thing for re-finishing (with marine-grade spar polyurathane).

We got the whole works put together in about 25 minutes. It would have been maybe 10 minutes, but being a real man, I did not read the instructions on my scope mount and had to install it twice. I then did a rough bore-sighting by removing the bolt and looking at an object about 25 yards away. I then moved the scope's crosshairs until the object was centered in them, as well as in the bore.

This morning, James and I headed to the range to get a rough zero, and see if the old warhorse was going to work. It did. My bore-sight work had the first group hitting about 8" left and 2" below the bull's eye. After a few more rounds, I zeroed it to hit about 2" high at 50 yards, which will bring it pretty close to dead on at 200 yards, and about 2.5" high at 100 yards. The 1970s vintage Romanian surplus 8mm ammunition (150 grain FMJ steel core) was pretty accurate, very powerful, and just a bit smoky. It is not advertised as "corrosive", but it most likely is. Accuracy with five shot groups tended to hover around 5" at 50yd standing, 3" to 4" from kneeling, and 2-3 inches prone on some funky ground and shooting through some weeds. I think with a proper shooting position I could shoot 3" to 4" at 100yds with this ammunition. Some have reported that the Yugo Mausers prefer the heaver 196 grain loads.

The 24/47 handles pretty well. It isn't a short rifle, but it is just short enough to be quite handy to carry or toss in the back of a truck. The three-position safety is just a bit clunky to operate, but it locks in position very positively, and it is very functional. The trigger is a standard old-school military style two-stage. The first stage is very light with about 1/4" of take-up, and the second stage breaks at a very crisp and clean five or six pounds. The 24/47 weighs in at about 9lbs and some change, so it isn't a pain to pack around. The weight helps to tame the recoil from the 8mm cartridge which is only a half-step behind the iconic 30-06 in velocity. The difference between 8mm Mauser and 30-06 in actual muzzle energy (velocity squared x bullet weight /450436) is negligible. The recoil pulse is different than some in that it is more of a long push than a slap. The muzzle rises and it pushes your shoulder around, but it doesn't really hurt (like say, a Mosin Nagant 91/30). I like this rifle very much, and may edge out some of its younger competitors in my collection.

It's not very pretty (yet), but boy can it shoot. I customized this rifle to be my "everything-rifle"--powerful, handy, accurate, and reliable. I think it will fill this role nicely. Now to get crackin' on that stock!